NYC ‘18

I was surprised, coming from Portland, at the magnitude and presence of this city. Parts of it spoke of an old way of living, of tradition, of roots that spread far and wide. Yet, other parts felt modern and sleek in a way that boldly contrasted with the world I knew back home. I wasn’t prepared for how expansive NYC is. Getting from one side of New York to the other took as long as it did to leave Portland and go to another city entirely. What was most exciting for me, though, was the incredible diversity in this metropolis; the chattering of French, Arabic, Russian, Mandarin, Korean. At times, I felt as though I was transported to an entirely different country. The contemplative looks of so many different kinds of people as we all passed our time on the long subway rides, each in our own world, felt truly profound for me. It wasn’t culture shock I experienced here just quite, but it was absolutely a different city from Portland. 

Below, I’ve broken up my recommended itinerary by what to eat, coffee shops and speakeasies, and what to do. Here’s what we did in our 9 days here!

What to Eat:

New York is a food mecca, a foodie’s paradise. In a city of 8 million, your options are innumerable. There was pizza shop every few blocks, bagels all over the place, and hot dogs stands at every busy corner. I wanted to really dive deep into NYC’s food culture, or as much as I could being there for only 9 days. What is unique about New York? Certainly the diasporas of people from all over the world. New York is such a melting pot of cultures and people. I sought restaurants that would give me a taste of something not easily found back home.

1. Katz Delicatessen: LET ME TELL YOU. This is a whole experience. Upon walking in, we were given a ticket to order with, which we were told to not lose. We asked a local just in front of us what to get while waiting in the hectic “line”, and they gushed over Katz’s simple pastrami sandwich. On top of that, we also decided to get the reuben and a matzo ball, but altogether, it was entirely too much food. My partner and I easily could have split just the pastrami sandwich. It’s stacked as high as the sky with tender, flavorful, meat that just falls apart in your mouth. If you decide to go - don’t even worry about the other sandwiches. Pastrami is all you need. On a side note, we managed to get seated in the exact spot where “When Harry Met Sally” was filmed, so… you bet I put on my best dramatic face to recreate the movie. 

2. Syliva’s: We made our way out to Harlem to eat at Sylvia’s - the super, ultra famous soul food joint, where the likes of Beyoncé, Denzel Washington, and Obama have dined. We split a big plate of chicken, collard greens, and macaroni and cheese, so it ended up being pretty cheap! And boy, it was incredible. This is what they mean by foodgasm. 

3. Nomwah Tea Parlor: This nearly one-hundred-year-old dim sum parlor is located in China Town on a street with an extremely intriguing past. Long ago, Doyers St. was home to opium dens, prostitution rings, and dramatic gang wars. Now, this street is mostly bustling with people ready to knock back some shumai. You’ll want to be sure to get there early; we arrived just a few minutes after opening and were told it could be 30-45 min. When we finally got in, we were seated in the cute window seat looking on the hungry loiterers. Pro-tip: the shrimp shumai were out of this world. 

4. Ess-a-Bagel: Bagels weren’t even a question and I had read that this is among the best. I’ll admit, I was a bit intimidated being a meek PNW-er in there; the place is fast-paced, bustling, and crowded. I watched another tourist go up to ordering and speaking very soft-spoken - the woman behind the counter was not having it. I advise knowing what you want to order by the time you get to the front and projecting your voice over the chatter. I got a plain bagel with lox and the bagel was something I never imagined. Our bagels in PDX are soft and fluffy, but oh NYC, your bagels are chewy bites of heaven. 

5. Grimaldi’s: NYC pizza culture is something else. There are so many types of pizza, from your dollar slice, to competing legends like Juliana’s and Emmy Squared, to Joe’s and Vinnie’s… With only so much room in our stomachs, we went with one of the classics, the legendary pizzeria in Brooklyn, Grimaldi’s. I do hear it gets pretty busy, but when we went, it was extremely rainy, so I think that helped. We walked right in and were seated right away and got seated right next to the stove, so I definitely peaked over and marveled at the prepping of our pizza. 

6. Luke’s Lobster Rolls: We made it to the other side of the Brooklyn Bridge and walked over to have a lobster roll and a cup of lobster bisque. It’s a NY thing I guess, but a more recent development. There are now some locations in other cities, but if you’re in a city without one, definitely worth a stop in.

7. Salvation Taco: For brunch, we hunted down this swanky place in midtown and indulged in some of the most amazing guacamole I’ve ever had. The owner is British, but she certainly has a passion for food - she holds a Michelin star at a couple of restaurants. We initially went because I had seen pictures from their rooftop and it seemed to be a great way to get a nice view of the city, but we actually never got up because of the weather. Do check it out if you are there in good weather and you want to be fancy. 

8. Shorty Tang’s: We got a bit turned around and an old local with a charming New York accent picked up on our confused faces and asked us where we were going. To our surprise he “ahhh-ed” and gave us perfect directions - he definitely knew of this little Taiwanese joint. We got the sesame noodle and beef noodle soup and it was just what we needed after a long day on our feet. It’s family-owned and they have such a great story about how they got started. 

9. The Butcher’s Daughter: This place has a stunning interior, with vibrant splashes of canary yellow industrial chic furniture which somehow gave off a quaint vibe at the same time. They offer mostly vegetarian and vegan food - I had the muesli for a healthy start to the trip and Jason had coconut flour pancakes with berries on top. Their presentation is just as delicious as the food. I always like to map out a few simple, vegetable-forward meals to counter the more tasty options we’d indulge in.

10. Egg Shop (Brooklyn): Any egg sandwich. This place had a bit of a wait, but it was so worth it. Their hot sauce is spectacular in my opinion, and I would have taken a few bottles home had I not intended to do a carry-on bag instead of checking it. Also, the egg design everywhere is subtle but so clever. Keep your eyes down for the yellow tile amongst all the white tiles on the floor.

11. Honorable Mention - The New York Hot Dog Stand: You’ll see these stands all over, and while they’re pretty pathetic, skinny, little dogs, it’s definitely an experience. And for $2, it’ll hold you over until you get to your next destination! I did wonder if they do anything special with the hot dog broth they’re always brewing… hotdog tea anyone?

(Note: Most photos by Jason - @byungchance)

Coffee Shops:

1. Devoción: Oh boy, this place had good coffee. I got an iced latte and Jason had an americano, and we both ooh-ed and ahh-ed over it. It was quite crowded, I imagine because we went on Memorial Day. The interior felt very sophisticated with leather couches, brick walls, a sky light that lit up the whole room. But my personal favorite was a wall covered in plants. It was exactly the kind of place I’d want to camp out and work on my blog for a while.  

2. Cha Cha Matcha: This funky shop with pink and forest green interior has so much aesthetic; from the furniture, to the neon lights boasting matcha puns, to the actual latte art itself. But on top of being very Instagram-friendly, their coconut matcha latte was amazing. They have all sorts of dairy-free alternatives such as hemp, coconut, soy, almond, and macadamia milk. If you’re into matcha, give this place a try!  

3. Bakeri: It’s a rather unassuming place just passing by, but this quaint little café transports you back to simpler times. With vintage-vibe furniture and rustic pastries, we had a super relaxing sit here for breakfast and coffee. We actually sat in what looks to be an old mud room that led out to a courtyard out back with benches and a pond. 

4. Summers NYC: Well, I don’t know if this makes me extremely conceited or not, but I saw a shop called Summers, so I had to stop in. This place had a very surfer-feel, with a surfboard hanging on the wall and fruit juices in the ice chest by the counter. It’s a small shop that served Devocion’s delicious coffee, but it seemed to bring in locals mostly. An older man with a cute little dog walked in and the employees greeted him warmly as he helped himself to the complimentary dog biscuits. 

5. Kubrick NYC: The weather fluctuated dramatically while there, and while walking around one hot day, I decided I needed a second iced coffee. I spotted this cute coffee shop with its outdoor seating and decided to stop in. I was surprised to find that the person before me had paid for my coffee. I tipped generously though, of course.  Also, make sure to go to the bathroom while there. Not for that. There’s a really cool mirrored mosaic of glittery tigers! Yes, I took a video of the bathroom for my vlog. 

6. Maman: A French style bakery and coffee shop. I ordered a lavender hot chocolate to warm up from the cold. 

7. Sweet Moment: This place is known for their cream-art lattes, which I found to be rather like a dessert coffee. I got the one with matcha whipped cream on top which they use as their canvas. This drink was nearly too adorable to touch, so I definitely sat there marveling at it for a while before I took the first sip that destroyed its little face. It looked so confused and betrayed. They also have awesome desserts like honey toast and bingsoo. 

8. Bibble and Sip: We needed a place for refuge when the rain come down quite hard one day, so we stopped in for a tea and an adorable llama shaped cookie. This place was quite popular. 

Speakeasies:

1. PDT: Walk through a phone booth inside a hotdog shop and you’re in! We had kimchi-topped hot dogs from next door which Jason wasn’t exactly amused by but I enjoyed it. Our bartender recommended the mezcal mule, paddington, shark, or old fashioned. I tried the mezcal mule and Jason got the Long Island Iced Tea. Our next drink we shared was something with absinthe. Very fitting.

2. The Back Room:  A legit old speakeasy hidden and unmarked. We went down a flight of stairs, back through an alleyway until we found some creepy kid’s toys. When we got in, I had a ruby slipper served in a tea cup. It was a beautiful old place with plush red velvet antique chairs, chandeliers, and dim lights. I tried to find a secret room I had heard about, but it had since been closed. When I barged in, they escorted me out and kindly put a blockade in front of it to prevent anyone else from charging in. Womp.

What to Do:

1. Manicure @ Paintbox Nails: This nail salon has a catalog of beautiful designs to chose from. I dropped some money on this, but this manicure had me picking up all sorts of things flamboyantly. This was a great way to start my 9 day vacation feeling good. Oh and I guess Rihanna once booked out the place for her niece’s birthday.

2. Explore around Chinatown and Canal St: 

   1. Glossier: We don’t have this in PDX and it was nice to try things out in person before buying online. 

   2. Canal St. Market: Like the bigger, better twin to Pine Street Market in PDX, this market has a diverse range of trendy foods and drinks including Boba Guys, and lots of local merchants selling handmade clothes, jewelry, and home goods. 

3. MOMA: Home to some of the world’s treasures and where you’ll see the most berets outside of Paris, this museum is free on Friday nights (though it gets quite crowded). We got to see Monet, Dali, and Van Gogh, and it was mind blowing. 

4. Grand Central Station: Beautiful old station with constellations painted on the ceilings. Great for people watching. Try the echo spot for some acoustic fun!

5. NYC Library: I felt so academic here with the walls of old books and glass lamps on the tables. Architecturally, this place is stunning and you can truly get lost in the marble hallways, the rows and rows of books. There are dreamy paintings on the ceilings, so make sure to shift your gaze upwards as you explore its peaceful grounds. 

6. 9/11 Memorial: I remember the confusion as a young child and hearing of the 9/11 attack, but it still never really occurred to me how massive the towers were. It was a very sobering moment amongst everything looking out at the immense hole where two massive skyscrapers once stood.

7. Oculus: Shopping mall with interesting open architecture.

8. Explore Brooklyn: 

   1. Package Free Store: This shop has a great mission of eliminating unnecessary packaging and supporting sustainable, eco-friendly, ethically made items. I definitely dropped some dollars here on reusable makeup wipes, dish scrubbers, and produce bags. Plus, the owner is a total badass - I follow her account @Trashisfortossers

   2. Vintage shopping: There are so many amazing second hand stores in Brooklyn. I bought a cozy $5 flannel and 2 cute berets which I will be wearing the heck out of. Maybe I’ll need to stop by MOMA again!

9. Explore DUMBO: 

   1. View of the Manhattan Bridge at that one spot. Might as well take the picture! I did find it to be a pleasant sight. 

   2. St. Ann’s Warehouse - industrial chic started in this area probably.

   3. Klompching Art Galleries: One had a friendly, guilt-trip inducing poodle that I just wanted to stay and cuddle.

   4. Brooklyn Bridge Walk: It’s supposed to take 20 minutes to cross, but with us being tOuRiSts and taking a million photos along the way, it took us about an hour to make it over to Manhattan. It really was beautiful up there though with the skyline view and the Statue of Liberty, which is why we took our time crossing. 

10. Staten Island Ferry: Do it at sunset and for free. Watch the Statue of Liberty outlined in a deep sunset, grow closer and then farther away again. Very relaxing, but I kept calling it the Eiffel Tower on accident… Me: “Wow! Look you can see the Eiffel Tower!”Jason: “Statue of Liberty.” Me: “The Statue of Liberty!” 

11. Walk the High Line in Chelsea: An old train track turned walkway with art installations, sculptures, and grassy patches. 

12. West Fourth Street Courts: A lot of basketball stars grew up playing here. 

13. Artist and Flea: Cool market in downtown Manhattan with local artisans selling an array of purses, jewelry, hats, vintage clothing, soaps etc.