What to do and see in Kyoto:

1. Fushimi Inari and the market with street food by it

2. Kiyomizu-dera

3. Kinkakuji/Golden Pavillion

4. Shopping in Gion

5. Try matcha icecream

6. Enjoy a cup of green tea and wagashi at a tea house

7. Learn tea ceremony

8. Take a wagashi making class

9. Try to spot a geisha

10. Shijo Dori

11. Nishiki Fish Market

Kyoto 2016

Fushimi Inari

As the former imperial capital of Japan, Kyoto is home to many important shrines and preserved historical treasures. This was the first city I visited where I knew absolutely no one. I was truly on my own for this experience and I couldn’t have picked a better place for my first attempt at traveling completely solo. It pushed me out of my shell more than any other place I visited and forced me to use the extremely little Japanese I learned to make friends with perfect strangers when I was in need of help. The incredible amount of freedom to do whatever I wanted whenever I wanted was indescribably liberating. Traveling alone is something I think everyone should try at least once!

The place I chose to stay in Kyoto was an airbnb just a 5 minute walk from Fushimi Inari. At the bottom of Mount Inari is the grandiose entrance but as you go up, hundreds of bright orange gates trace the pathway up the mountain. You can choose to do the small loop that’s at the base of the mountain but you can also choose to go to the very top and get lost on side trails along the way like I did. After a while, I found myself wandering alone through the airy bamboo forest. The wind sweeping through felt like it was pushing me further into the depths, but being alone and with no schedule to abide by, I simply followed. Soon, not a soul was in sight. Along the path, I found many small shrines tucked away and because they were all covered in moss, it felt as though they had not been touched in eons. I climbed the steep, narrow stairs and washed my hands with the water trickling from the rocks to practice the customs of the shinto shrines, following the routine my friends in Tokyo had taught me. Standing guard were hundreds of stone fox statues. I understood that in Japanese culture, there’s a shapeshifting god called Inari who represents foxes, fertility, rice, tea and sake, and agriculture.

As I continued on the winding path, I ended up getting completely lost. There was no one around for a long time and I ended up spending quite a bit of time wandering around the forest trying to find my way back with no data on my phone. My emotions were a mix of exhilaration and nervousness. I hoped I could find my way back before nightfall. I couldn’t imagine being trapped at a shrine at night! And what kind of wild animals live in bamboo forests? Are there wolves out here? Do the giant salamanders live near Kyoto streams? What if they have those scary badger-cat-possum-racoons out here like I saw in Tokyo?

Eventually I stumbled into two Japanese women out for a hike. We tried to figure each other out through the language barrier I posed. They understood clearly that I was lost, though. I told them “Fushimi Inari” and they understood that I wanted to go there, they walked with me a ways and guided me back to a straight trail and indicated that I should follow it. I was so, so thankful.

When I got back on the path, I eventually came across a tiny restaurant halfway up the mountain where I rested my feet and enjoyed a bowl of kitsune udon. I think the fact that it was both unexpected and also tucked away so deep in the woods made it feel extra magical.

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Kiyomizu-dera

I was able to visit the outside of Kiyomizudera. Unfortunately, one unexpected drawback in Japan is that they rely heavily on cash. I also had the problem that most normal ATMs would not allow me to draw cash with my Bank of America debit card. I had to specifically find a 7/11 and the minimum amount I could draw was $100 worth. I ended up spending all of my cash that day and when I got to Kiyomizudera, I had an hour before closing but the nearest ATM was far away. The pagodas outside are still breathtaking, but I hear entering the temple itself feels like you’re in an air temple in the mountain. Next time I visit Japan, this is definitely on my list to go back to.

There were many fun shops (Sannenzaka Ninenzaka) near this temple where you can find souvenirs, traditional Japanese goods and snacks, and there are many people dressed in kimono! A lot of shops sell this triangle shaped mochi treat with assorted fillings called yatsuhashi. You can often sample as many flavors as you would like in these crowded stores and I definitely bought some to take home.

Sukiyaki

I found an all you can eat sukiyaki + shabu shabu place and treated myself to a luxurious meal. They were surprised I was alone for this experience as they seated me, but I’m pretty sure I ate for two.