ICELAND FOOD DIARY
A huge piece of any culture is spoken through their food. It tells you about the land, the history, the creativity of the people it belongs to. When I approach any traditional food, I always try to do so with an open heart, respect, and humility. Below, are some of my favorite places we tried!
CAFE LOKI
What to eat: Kjötsupa + Icelandic Plate 1 ($16 + $24 USD)
This little café with a direct view of the majestic Hallgrimskirkja serves a variety of traditional Icelandic fair from smoked fish, flatbreads, and even the infamous hakarl (fermented shark). The kjötsupa (lamb soup) and flatbreads were what beckoned us back to this café when we visited Iceland a second time! We tried the Icelandic Plate 1 combo, which included plokkifiskur (mashed fish with potatoes) on rye, smoked trout on rye, sheep head jelly on flatbread, pea salad, and grated turnip. This place can get pretty spendy, as can most food in Iceland, but if you are okay with dropping money on a splurge meal for authentic Icelandic food, you will have some fantastically unique treats here that you won’t find anywhere else in the world. And this place is Icelander approved, too!
BAEJARINN’S BEZTU PYLSUR
What to eat: The one thing they serve - hotdog ($5 USD)
Waterfalls and northern lights? Eh. This nearly 100 year old hotdog stand is the real reason we came back to Iceland. I’ve had recurring dreams about this hotdog since we returned home. The hotdog itself is mixed meat (lamb, pork, and beef) and is topped with raw onions, fried onions, mustard, and ketchup if you order it “einna ollu medu”, or “with the works”. It’s one of the cheapest and best meals you can find coming in around $5 USD per dog. Beware the pesky pigeons though. This is outdoor seating only.
REYKJAVIK FISH
What to eat: Fish and chips + plokkari! ($14 + $17 USD)
It’s a no-brainer to get their prized dish made with fresh, local arctic char, but their plokkari is also phenomenal. Plokkari is a dish made with mashed fish and potato, and it’s often served with a side of Icelandic rye bread. A day after trying Reykjavik Fish, we tried Icelandic Fish and Chips and agreed that the latter felt unnecessarily upscale and expensive. Reykjavik Fish and Chips won our hearts in that arena.
NOODLE STATION
What to eat: Noodle soup with chicken ($16 USD)
Noodle Station specializes in a noodle soup that smells a bit like pho, but had what felt like pad thai toppings (chopped peanuts, sprouts, flat noodles, and chili oil). Jason was immediately obsessed with this place since it was the perfect place to warm up on a frigid day in Iceland. I recommend the chicken over the beef. The pieces of chicken are tender, juicy, and so flavorful. Also, by Icelandic standards, this meal is pretty cheap!
SAEGREIFFIN
What to eat: Humarsúpa ($14 USD)
It can be tough to find traditional Icelandic food that won’t break your bank, but this place serves the best deal I’ve seen yet. For just about $14 USD, you can get a delicious bowl of humarsúpa (creamy lobster soup) with chunks of lobster caught right there on the harbor. It’s also served up with a basket of bread and smjör (butter) that you can dip in the soup for a heavenly combination. The name “Saegreifinn” is Icelandic for “sea baron” and is owned by a retired fisherman, which made the place all the more charming. If you do find yourself in the mood to splurge, you certainly can with their skewers of arctic char, salmon, and whale.
ICELANDIC CRAFT BAR
What to eat: Hákarl (fermented shark) + shot of brennivín ($7 USD)
For northern islands like Iceland, ancient food practices evolved to meet the trying demands of such an inhospitable environment. Vegetation struggled to grow in the mostly volcanic surface and so people learned to make what was available stretch as long as possible. For many cultures up north, this meant learning how to preserve various animal meats via drying and fermentation.
For the older generation, these tastes are nostalgic and quintessentially tied to their proud history. The man at the bar serving us was Icelandic and he told us stories of his grandpa enjoying this as an evening treat.
Now, hákarl does have quite a strong ammonia smell and taste, so I did have had a hard time chewing and swallowing. I was embarrassed that my eyes uncontrollably teared up and there was a moment where the shark wanted to make its way back onto the plate. Jason knocked it back no problem! While I can’t say I enjoyed the taste, I wouldn’t have traded that moment for a thing. These food practices speak of a fierce resilience, of creativity and genius, of living against the odds, and so I found it beautifully human.
We were suggested to follow the bite with a shot of brennivín, Iceland’s signature distilled drink, and cheers with the word “skál”, which sounds like “scowl”.
OTHER CHEAP EATS
If going out every meal is too much of a stretch to your budget, you can certainly go grocery shopping and stock up your hostel/hotel/Airbnb fridge. Here are some Iceland-inspired meals you can stock up on at grocery stores or a 10-11 (their version of 7/11) for cheap:
Rye bread, butter, with lox, smoked lamb, or herring
Flat bread with hard boiled eggs sliced and pickled herring on top
Skyr. Skyr. Skyr. This is an Icelandic dairy product that they say is not yogurt. But I think for an American palette, it feels a lot like Greek yogurt. I found most places sell it for 298 KR, but Vidir Express sold it for 198. If you eat it every day for a week, you’ll save a dollar each morning. That’s one big coffee by the end of the week!
STILL ON THE BUCKET LIST
With so much to still see and experience, I know we’ll be back someday! Here are some places we’ll try next time:
Mulakaffi: Be sure to learn some food vocabulary and ordering phrases before you go! The menu is entirely in Icelandic. I’m excited to go back someday and practice the teensy bit of Icelandic I tried to learn.
Prir Frakkar: A favorite of Jamie Oliver that serves delicacies like whale and puffin.
Coocoo’s Nest: Family-owned, bohemian decor, known for great brunch.
Snaps: Stunning interior, local seafood, but quite spendy.
Laundromat: Diner vibes with generous brunch servings.